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Visita “Albero del Caffè” 13 dicembre 2014 – InGASati Gruppo di Acquisto Solidale – Forlì Salta al contenuto Partenza puntuale da Forlì, sosta in autostrada ed arrivo in azienda verso le 14:50 …
Veniamo accolti da Antonella naturalmente con un caffè, per l’occasione anche io lo prendo … è bello schiumoso, ha un sapore corposo che lascia un buon retrogusto cui verrà dato un significato poi da Alessio. Intanto osserviamo la pianta del caffè che hanno in vaso e che sono riusciti a far nascere e crescere dopo diversi tentativi (non vedo l’ora di fare una visita ad un trasformatore di canapa … :-))!
Indossiamo calzanti e cuffietta … siamo proprio belli e anche sterilizzati al punto giusto per iniziare il percorso!
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Ci spiega come il Caffè abbia la sua quotazione in borsa e come, dopo il petrolio ma prima dell’oro, sia fra le merci maggiormente importanti dell’economia Mondiale.
Alessio ci spiega un pò della scelta delle famiglie produttrici di caffè e dei loro appezzamenti di terra che sono un put-pourri di piante per la sopravvivenza alimentare delle famiglie con, come “sottobosco”, le piante del caffè che servono per un minimo di reddito delle famiglie stesse.
Ci fa poi entrare “nei panni” di questi agricoltori che, fondamentalmente, ci dice non cercano gran che anche perchè sono inseriti nella loro Società e condividono un certo modo di vivere che vuole che, per il reddito derivante dalla commercializzazione del loro caffè, ci si rivolga ad un “coyote” locale che altri non è che un “intermediario” o, per come l’ho tradotto io dai suoi racconti e rende per me meglio l’idea, un “magnaccia” che ha l’esclusiva di un certo numero di agricoltori e la cede solo a coyote più importanti e “pericolosi” di lui non senza qualche qualche “intimidazione”. Ci spiega come “emancipare” queste famiglie di agricoltori sia parecchio difficile; di come, a fronte di qualche progetto che riesce a tirare avanti, tanti altri invece falliscano e di come ogni agricoltore che si presta a entrare in progetti tipo questo con vendita diretta all’Albero del Caffè si esponga a grossi rischi personali e famigliari. In pratica una volta che l’agricoltore si estranea dal giro dei coyote è un pò come se si isolasse anche dal resto della sua società , moglie e figli vengono anch’essi isolati e spesso nemmeno più salutati; inoltre queste famiglie mettono in discussione il loro reddito che, per quanto basso, comunque c’è con un altro reddito sicuramente più consono al lavoro che fanno ma che deve aspettare molto tempo ad “entrare”. Se poi la vendita diretta non ha il giusto sbocco e fallisce, impone a questi agricoltori che vi hanno aderito di dover tornare dal “coyote” e dalla loro società da “perdenti” e, sicuramente, con condizioni ulteriori e poco piacevoli.
Ci racconta come nel progetto dell’albero del caffè rientri anche la formazione di questi contadini e la loro “emancipazione” una volta acquisite le capacità di poter gestire direttamente anche il processo di torrefazione del caffè ed infatti ogni anno diversi agricoltori vengono in Italia nel suo capannone a seguire ed imparare il processo di torrefazione per “chiudere il giro”.
Inoltre spiega come nella loro azienda trovino lavoro sia galeotti che ex galeotti che persone con problemi di inserimento nella Società, ci mostra poi le varie attrezzature spiegandoci come siano per lo più provenienti da vecchie torrefazioni che si sono meccanizzate ulteriormente con macchinari più all’avanguardia. Mi ha personalmente colpito l’obbiettivo che si sono dati per il breve periodo di rimuovere una sorta di tramoggia di carico del caffè per caricare il forno di torrefazione con la motivazione che fa rumore e polvere mentre senza quella potrebbe lavorare qualche ora in più e in un ambiente meno rumoroso e polveroso (quindi più sano) qualche loro collaboratore …
Mi ha colpito anche la visione che ci ha dato dell’esperienza maturata con i galeotti che, in galera, si trovano come con un baratro di fronte che diventa un ostacolo non oltrepassabile spiegando come il lavoro in torrefazione rappresenti una sorta di spinta, di aiuto, di stimolo ad affrontare il salto per superare e vincere il baratro.
Un altro stimolo è per le persone che invece faticano ad inserirsi in società (ci ha spiegato che a causa di un ape entrata in capannone due suoi collaboratori siano rimasti nascosti sotto al tavolo, sospendendo le lavorazioni per un paio di giorni finchè l’ape non è definitivamente riuscita a uscire dal capannone….) e ci ha raccontato di un ragazzo di nome Federico che è entrato come un automa con parecchi psicofarmaci nella sua giornata ad ore scandite e che era diventato un ottimo degustatore e creatore di miscele di caffè e che dopo poco aveva completamente abbandonato anche i psicofarmaci trovando perfino una ragazza che amava ma che, una volta che lo ha lasciato, lo ha fatto ripiombare nel buio. Mi ha molto toccato la sua serenità nello spiegare anche i fallimenti in cui si incorre nella vita, proprio parlando di questo ragazzo di nome Federico!
Cia ha spiegato i due tipi di caffè esistenti:
Arabica: che va dai 600-700 ml sul livello del mare fino a oltre 2000; Robusta: che invece va dal livello del mare ai 600 ml sul livello del mare. Spiega come pochissimi tipi di caffè (definiti “speciali”) sono autonomi e usati singolarmente risultano come un buon assolo musicale mentre ho capito che anche lui preferisce le “miscele” di diversi tipi di caffè che sente come il suono di tanti componenti di un orchestra che rendono la sinfonia risultante qualcosa di unico ed irripetibile.
Alla raccolta del caffè le bacche sono una sorta di ciliegie
a l cui interno ci sono in ognuna due chicchi complementari e simmetrici e qui si differenziano due tipi di lavorazione della ciliegia: “naturale” (se essicata la ciliegia al sole laddove il clima lo permetta) e “lavata” (qualora il sole sia poco si mette la ciliegia a fermentare una volta leggermente aperta). E qui inizia il viaggio sensoriale in mezzo a queste diverse tipologie che vengono trasferite all’arrivo dai sacchi in dei contenitori di plastica
… che bello sentire gli odori di sottobosco della foresta amazzonica e sentire la differenza rispetto al robusto indiano, sentire il diverso rumore che fanno i chicchi da tostare di vario tipo (effettivamente diversi gli uni dagli altri…) ed anche di quelli tostati.
Partiamo nel tour con il forno per torrefazione che è del 1972 ed ha una camera in refrattario
e ci mostra pure un foglio in cui si vede il colore dei chicchi che cambia durante i circa 30 minuti di tostatura che ancora Alessio rispetta integralmente. I marchi di caffè blasonati partono da tostature di 5 minuti ed arrivano ad un massimo di 12 minuti per una tostatura che quindi è rapidissima ed intensa e necessita di riposo più lungo per permettere fuoriuscita di anidride carbonica, seguendo un processo più lento il riscaldamento del chicco è sicuramente più lento e il processo di tostatura più rispettoso della naturale evoluzione del chicco e della fuoriuscita dell’anidride carbonica dal chicco (guardate la foto e controllate dopo 5 e dopo 12 minuti il grado di coloritura del chicco nel suo forno … e pensate al chicco che prendete nel bar che tipo di “stress termico” ha subito … )
Mostra poi in questa macchina il cassettino per estrarre e monitorare il colore del chicco all’interno anche se lui usa pochissimo la vista perchè si affida al “rumore” dello stesso all’interno (che viene smosso automaticamente durante la tostatura) e annusa i chicchi per capire il risultato della tostatura stessa.
Poi vediamo anche il miscelatore che usano per miscelare i caffè tostati per comporre le miscele che orami li contraddistinguono.
Mostra poi il macinatore originale del 1969 che ha dovuto integrare con uno nuovo per mandare in pensione il vecchietto (che rammento … ha la mia età … 😥 ) nonchè il dosatore ed il sigillatore di sacchetti (questi si paiono nuovi e all’avanguardia ricchi di tanti bei pulsantini e relè… 😛 )
A fronte delle domande insistenti e naturalmente in dirittura di arrivo delle 17:00 (orario che aveva come chiusura per altro impegno istituzionale) arriviamo a come fare il caffè con la moka:
prendere il serbatoio dell’acqua e mettergliene per quanto è prevista (usare acqua minerale con residuo fisso 50-110) dopodichè metterla sul fornello per portarla a circa 60°C, nel frattempo si riempie l’imbutino portacaffè di caffè¨ macinato, si da qualche colpetto per assestarlo e compattarlo bene dopodichè si fa la montagnola da raschiare opportunamente per rasarla rispetto ai bordi del contenitore del caffè con il manico del cucchiaino. A circa 60°C dell’acqua si installa anche imbuto e stringe la parte superiore. Il primo caffè che esce da vapore ed è quello che più dell’altro trasferisce gli aromi, poi arriva quello intensamente nero, come inizia a schiarire va immediatamente rimossa la caffettiera dal fuoco e appoggiata su un mobile per evitare la parte legnosa e più “acida” del caffè. In caso di miscela arabica è meglio togliere la caffettiera e metterla a mollo (almeno per l’altezza del serbatoio) in acqua fredda.
Per la macchina espresso Alessio sconsiglia quella che macina direttamente perchè il caffè non rende al meglio e comunemente viene fuori freddo, consiglia invece macchinette con pressioni del vapore/acqua più alte delle commerciali che possono si costare qualcosa di più ma che danno sicuramente un risultato migliore alla tazzina.
Il sacchetto di caffè aperto è bene richiuderlo al meglio e conservarlo in frigorifero per mantenere gli aromi.
Lui bevendo il suo caffè sente il calore delle persone che conosce personalmente e che lo coltivano, l’aroma del mare che i chicchi attraversano in container e delle persone che poi nel suo impianto di torrefazione lo lavorano e questo penso sia riuscito a trasmetterlo a tutti noi 11 inGASati (diciamo 10 e mezzo…) che abbiamo assistito a questa indimenticabile presentazione.
Grazie Alessio e e grazie Antonella, ora tocca a noi far nostro anche il sogno di queste due indimenticabili persone così come aiutare i contadini a liberarsi dei “coyote” dando loro la sicurezza che un altro Mondo è possibile!
Saluti radiosi
19 risposte su “Visita “Albero del Caffè” 13 dicembre 2014”
Grazie Romeo !!! Sei il relatore migliore che ci sia 🙂
Mi dispiace per chi non è venuto che si è perso profumi, aromi e sensazioni che le foto non riescono a trasmettere….
Aggiungo solo che l’ordine partirà soltanto a fine gennaio, in quanto la ditta va in ferie per le feste di Natale.
grazie ancora
cri
ps: commentate per favore che se no, dopo tanta fatica, il relatore non relazionerà più !! 🙂
Dai che un commento lo metto anche io e riguarda quanto stampato sul fronte della busta del caffè:
“Da agricoltura biologica e commercio giusto”
Uno spettacolo!
Era un pezzo che non facevo una gita culturale così appagante e piacevole con tutta la famiglia, voglio ringraziare gli inGASati che sono intervenuti e coloro che non sono riusciti ad intervenire!
Grazie alla mia correttrice di bozze Cri, ispiratrice ed ispirata inGASata!
Saluti radiosi
Nonostante non ami consumare caffè, sono stata molto bene in questa gita. Ho amato i profumi dei chicchi prima della tostatura, e sono rimasta affascinata dall’amore e dal rispetto che traspiravano dalle parole di Alessio nel descrivere il suo lavoro, le persone, il mondo dove ha origine il caffè.
Sono rimasta impressionata dal fatto che questi chicchi siano usati come moneta per acqustare armi, schiavi, soldati.
Se qualcuno toglie chicchi da questi commerci toglie spazio di manovra ai trafficanti e questo credo sia un bene.
Grazie agli ingasati per il resoconto, la compagnia, la bellezza di questo caffè 🙂
Grazie ragazzi, il mio vicino con la berretta è fantastico, iniziamo il 2015 con un grande caffè, stupendo !!
un abbraccio aromatico
Pietro
Bella gita intensa e profumata anche per chi vi legge!!!
Grazie Romeo del dettagliato racconto, stamattina mentre facevamo i biscotti raccontavamo INGASATI tutta la vostra gita ad una amica curiosa!
E subito dopo ci siamo fatti un buon caffé che l’angelo-Cri ci ha portato fresco fresco da Bologna…
un abbraccio
Daniela
Bellissimo !!!
veramente grazie mille per aver trovato questo produttore a aver raccontato la vostra gita in maniera così coinvolgente.
mando il link a mia mamma che è una grande bevitrice di caffè, a differenza di me !!!
Grazie Romeo
ci hanno scritto:
Grazie infinite,
è stato bello ed importante conoscervi.
sarà un onore e una risorsa avervi in squadra.
un caro saluto,
Alessio e antonella
Ragazzi mitici!
Alla prossima ci saremo anche noi. Grazie di essere andati e di aver rendicontato.
Attendiamo con anzia il nuovo anno per assaggiare il caffè!
Grazie Romeo! Confermo che il caffè dopo il petrolio è veramente il prodotto più importante per l’economia mondiale, per cui facciamo il nostro piccolo ma importante caffè giusto per tutti.
Grazie a tutti i “caffettari” bolognesi.
Maurizio
Grazie Romeo,
dal tuo rendiconto appassionato sembra di poter sentire gli aromi del caffè.
Un saluto
Viro
Un’altra bella storia per ingasati!
Non sono un caffeinomane ma non vedo l’ora di assaggiare il caffè.
Oh, ma l’ ingasato stranito si è ripreso poi??? Speriamo
Ciao a tutti
Ciao a tutti,
grazie per il resoconto…molto interessante l’attività dell’albero del caffè sia per l’attenzione alle materie prime e la cura dei produttori, sia per il lavoro prezioso con persone in difficoltà , utile e meritevole.
Abbiamo dovuto dare forfait all’ultimo secondo e ci dispiace proprio non aver ascoltato visto e annusato di persona!
Non vediamo l’ora si sperimentare però 😉
Un abbraccio,
Chiara e Claudio
Quando parlavi di coyote e tutte le cose legate al commercio del caffè mi è venuto in mente Amado con il suo “Gabriella garofano e cannella”anche se in quel romanzo si parlava di cacao e non di caffè.
Comunque grazie mille a voi che siete andati e che ci avete portato questa bella testimonianza. Io non bevo più caffè da 8 anni.. non è che magari loro hanno anche il caffè d’orzo? Comunque Matteo invece è un grande appassionato, quindi attendiamo l’ordine!!
ma che bello! grazie!!!
mmmm..Davvero viene voglia di caffè!
Grazie ragazzi per il “sacrificio”! 😀
va bè i complimenti li han già fatti tutti, che i bolognesi ci inGASano si è capito…quindi, ringraziandovi molto della gita, vi dirò solo…facevate davvero ridere con quelle cuffiette!!!!
Ragazzi, sono commosso … tanti commenti era un pezzo che non si contavano ad una discussione diversa da un ordine … siete stati troppo buoni … ora … tutti a nanna … 🙂
Saluti radiosi
Molto interessante! E complimenti per la visita e la relazione! Quasi quasi incomincio a bere caffè per provare questo..
Wow!!!
Ora che il bravissimo Romeo mi ha fatto sentire il profumo del caffè non vedo l’ora di assaggiarlo!!!
Statemi bene.